This type of welt pocket is good for coats & jackets.
Using a chalk pencil mark the 4 corners of finished welt on right side of garment, press interfacing onto the inside of the garment encompassing the welt area.
Interface the wrong side of the welt, fold in half & sew the ends, turn through & press making sure your corners are neat right angles.
Place welt onto garment using the lower chalk dots to position it correctly. The welt has a 1cm seam allowance so the stitch line must line up with your finished welt corners (the chalk dots).
Next attach the pocket bags, the lower pocket bag is usually cut in lining to avoid bulk, position & sew it on top of the previous row of stitching from dot to dot, your stitches must start & end on the welt corner. Repeat for the upper pocket bag, again the seam allowance is 1cm, you will end up with two parallel rows of stitching beginning & ending on the marked welt corners.
Only cutting the garment (not pocket bags) cut centrally between the 2 rows of stitching, stop 1.5cm short of each end & slash into each corner right up to the last stitch.
Pull both pocket bags through to the inside of the garment, fold back the triangles to form the welt ends & pin in position continuing around both bags to the other side.
With the lining side facing you stitch the pocket bags together, making sure the triangle is sewn in place.
Working on the right side of the garment topstitch the welt ends in place.
Garment Construction 